n 1967, Julia Child was the star of public television's popular The French Chef. Graham Kerr was about to debut as the Galloping Gourmet. Suddenly, people didn't have to go to culinary school to learn to make coq au vin, vichyssoise, quiche Lorraine, or pot au feu--all they had to do was watch TV.

t's not Christmas. It's September in New Mexico. And green chile peppers are ready for roasting.